Elite Dachshund

Education - Care & Training Tips

Crate Training, Sit, Down, Come, Leash Training and teach your puppy their name.

TEACHING THE "SIT" COMMAND
The is very easy to teach with a piece of food. Have your pup in front of you and let him smell the food (this works better if he is hungry) hold it over his head and start to move it past his head towards the shoulder area, as this is done he will be forced to sit in order to keep his eye on the food. As soon as his rump is on the floor, quickly give him the food and praise him. The next time use the command sit so he will hear the command with the action of the sit. You don't need to push his rump down or force him in any way. After he has the idea, you can then practice with him to your left side and your right side, facing the same direction as you are, so you can start the foundation training of automatic sitting and heeling.

This command is useful because as soon as you even think the puppy is going to jump-up on you, give him the "sit" command. Always, stressed - ALWAYS, make training fun and positive. Remember to praise your puppy for doing good. Do not swat or hit your puppy, because he simply is not born into this world knowing good from bad, teaching manners is up to you. After he is solid on his sit command, slowly start replacing the treat with praise, a back rub or whatever he likes.

TEACHING A PUPPY HIS NAME
Say the puppy’s name to him often, smiling when he looks at you. If he won't look at you, make a noise to get his attention. When he looks at you, say his name and praise him. Always praise in a high pitched voice, as this means"GOOD/FUN" in dog language. The tone of your voice is very important to your training. As already mentioned a higher pitched voice is the same as saying " PLAYTIME " to a dog. It excites them and makes them happy. A monotone voice has a calming effect on a dog and settles them down. A low voice is the same as a growl to a dog. So when the puppy has done something you don't approve of, use a low voice. Also, the way you look at a puppy or a dog either says "welcome or trouble" to them. When you are happy with your puppy, look in his eyes with a happy look. When disapproving, use a cold stare and don't break eye contact. Training your puppy will be much simpler using "their" form of communication. Once the language barrier is broken you won't have any trouble training your puppy.

TEACHING THE RECALL OR "COME" COMMAND
This is a very important command to teach your pup. It doesn't matter what word you use as long as you use the same word to avoid confusion. You may use come or  here.

Decide which word will be most comfortable to use. Call your puppy’s name to get his attention, then every time you feed your puppy, use the recall command (or if you choose, a whistle). We use a whistle command, starting the first day the puppies start eating and continuing into adulthood. A whistle recall has proven to work best for us. Make sure that you use the same word or whistle every time. Stress this to other members of the family also, this is to avoid confusion.

Another way to teach the recall command is to begin with your puppy fresh and playful. He needs to have his collar and leash on (IF he is leash trained). It is good to have a few treats at first. Start with saying your puppy's name in a happy higher pitched voice and then the come command. If your puppy comes to you, as he is coming to you back up quickly and then after a few steps, stop quickly give him a treat and lots of praise. If your puppy doesn't come, then reel him in gently and give the treat and praise, make this a fun time. Keep repeating this exercise until your puppy understands what you want him to do. Dogs learn by repetition. Always stop on a positive note and don't over train a very young pup by training for more than five or ten minutes at first.

Never, ever, call a pup/dog to you to punish him, this will only cause him to want to avoid you.

TEACHING LEASH TRAINING
Any training session should be very positive, fun and not stressful. You never want the puppy to be afraid of you or the training session. You never want a puppy/dog dreading whatever you are trying to teach him.

First you must get a flat buckle collar that fits your pup. It should be tight enough not to slip over his head, but not so tight as to choke him. Now you can use a 3 - 4 foot light rope or nylon leash and attach it to the collar. Simply allow the pup to get use to it by letting him drag it around for a day or two under supervision. When the pup doesn't seem to pay attention to the leash, then it is time to get him use to actually go with the leash and you. It is best done when the pup is a bit hungry. Take hold of the leash and have some food in your hand...hold the food just out in front of his nose and start walking keeping the food just out in front so he will get the idea to go with you. You can make kissing sounds as you are walking. Say the command" heel" so he will be able to associate the action with the command. Make it fun and use your higher pitched voice to encourage the pup to want to participate. There will be times when he will sit back and throw a fit. Don't give in to these tantrums. Just give him time and soon he will be going with you for a walk.
When he gets a bit older you can teach him the proper heel position, which is on your left side with his shoulder in line with your leg. It is always good to teach the heel on both sides of you, for the working dog. You shouldn't allow a dog to pull you along and take you where he wants go. This puts him in control and you should be the master over him. He will respect you more if you stay in the ALPHA or place of authority over him. After he is solid on his leash (not pulling or refusing), slowly start replacing the treat with praise, a back rub or whatever he likes. Be sure and not reward him for throwing a tantrum or pulling back. Only give him a treat or praise when he does what you want him to do. Remember be POSITIVE!

TEACHING THE DOWN COMMAND
Training the " down or lie down " command. This really is very easy to teach, there are many ways to teach it, but I believe this to be the best and quickest way for the pup to learn without ever forcing him. It will be his idea and so he will not be forced to learn. Anytime you can allow a pup to think for its self, the pup will retain it better and not resent the training .

First, have the pup sit. Take a small piece of treat in your hand, close your hand so the pup can't get to it. Let the pup smell it so he knows it is there. Next, slowly bring your hand to the ground right in front of him. He should be trying to get to the treat, in the process of him trying to get to the treat, his body will start to come down just as if his was trying to get something from under a couch or low ledge. While he’s trying to get the treat, tell him the command "down or lie down", which ever one you wish to use. When he lays down all the way, give him the treat. Now, if he just won't lie down this way, then you sit on the ground and put your knees up so there is a tunnel. Put him on one side of you and then on the other side you would have the treat.
He needs to be coaxed through the tunnel and in the process of trying to creep under, his body goes in the down position. This way he will not be able to cheat. It is amazing how fast a pup will learn this. Repeat often and use lots of praise to encourage him. This command is also very useful in a dog that likes to jump-up on someone. When you see that he is fixing to jump-up, give him the down command. After he is solid on his down, slowly start replacing the treat with praise, a back rub or whatever he likes.
    

Crate Training Your Dog

Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules – like what he can and can't chew on and where he can and can't eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he'll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed.

Selecting A Crate
Crates may be plastic (often called "flight kennels") or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in.

The Crate Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training. The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps - don't go too fast.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog To The Crate

• Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened opened so it won't hit your dog and frighten him.
• To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay – don't force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals In The Crate

• After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it's imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.

Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For Longer Time Periods

• After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter such as, "kennel up." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate. Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4: Part A/Crating Your Dog When Left Alone

• After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You'll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.

Step 5: Part B/Crating Your Dog At Night

• Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn't become associated with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer.

Potential Problems
Too Much Time In The Crate

• A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.

Whining

Separation Anxiety
Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal behaviorist for help .